Have You Ever Thought About Umbria?

Have you ever even heard of it?

Most people haven't. I never had, but then ended up with my first real job in Italy there--as a tour guide, leading hiking tours through the Marche and Umbria regions. I haven't visited in some time--years, in fact, but I'm going back there in a few weeks to visit Gubbio--and that got me thinking about writing a bit about this beautiful, lesser-known region. 

Tucked right in the middle of Italy like the delicious filling in a panino, Umbria is often called the “green heart of Italy.” Unlike its trendier neighbor Tuscany, Umbria is like that effortlessly stylish cousin who always looks fantastic but never feels the need to flaunt it. This region has no coastline—shocking, I know—but it makes up for it with rolling hills, medieval hilltop towns, and lakes so pretty they practically beg to be painted. Lake Trasimeno, for example, isn’t just Italy’s fourth-largest lake; it’s also where Hannibal (yes, that Hannibal. No--not Lector) tricked the Romans in a battle. No biggie, just ancient history served with a side of scenic views.

One of my favorite cities in this region is Perugia, a city known for two things: ancient Etruscan walls and chocolate. Every October, Perugia hosts Eurochocolate, a festival so full of cocoa delights that you’ll leave wondering if there’s such a thing as too much chocolate (spoiler: there isn’t). I love it because it's gorgeously medieval, but also has a huge school of Italian for foreigners, which draws people from all over the world. So you can drop into any bar at night, run into people from all different countries, and strike up a conversation.

And let’s not forget Orvieto, which balances atop a volcanic rock like it’s showing off. It’s famous for its white wine, Orvieto Classico, so if you find yourself perched on a terrace overlooking the countryside, glass in hand, you’re doing Umbria right. Oh, and they’ve got a 72-meter-deep well built by a pope, probably just to prove they could dig all the way to Australia if they really wanted to.

Another charming little town is Spello. And in Spello,  flowers are practically VIP citizens. Known for its Infiorata festival, Spello takes floral art to the next level. Each June, the streets are transformed into an explosion of color as locals create elaborate flower carpets that would make even Monet jealous. The whole town smells like a giant bouquet, and walking through it feels like stepping into a living, breathing work of art. Even outside of the festival, Spello doesn’t hold back—every windowsill, balcony, and alley bursts with blossoms, making this charming medieval town one of the most photogenic spots in all of Umbria.

But I'm headed to Gubbio. This medieval gem has cobblestone streets so charming you’ll feel like you’ve time-traveled back to the Middle Ages, except with Wi-Fi. Gubbio is also home to the world’s largest Christmas tree—or rather, a massive hillside decorated with thousands of colored lights to resemble one. Our friend who's invited us there for a weekend sent a photo of it from her balcony, and it doesn't disappoint. Check it out--it's 750 meters high!

If you're feeling like Tuscany has become overrun with tourists (it has), or just want to experience something new in Italy--give Umbria a try! I promise you won't be disappointed.